Trainorama 48 Sound – for me the Alco 244 sound.
Numerous sound decoders can be used for the 48/830 but the quality of the sound using the included speaker will be tinny and low in volume. You will get better sound from the included speaker if you glue a piece of .02” (20 thou) styrene across the back of the speaker to seal the enclosure but I recommend replacing the speaker, see below.
Decoder Installation will depend on what type of decoder you install and to whether you use the included speaker or not. If you replace the speaker you may need to modify the mounting of the Rear Headlight assembly.
Sound decoder suppliers like the Model Railroad Craftsman etc will provide Loksounds Selects of the style you want with Alco 251 Prime Mover or any other U.S. sound for $128, including the Alco 244 I discuss on my Blog (see the link below) or a V4.0 with a “compiled” sound, see MRRC. DCCSound will provide their “recorded” into V4.0 Loksound Micro decoder for $195. The 8 Pin decoders will plug directly into the Circuit Board but you’ll have to connect the speaker.
I discuss the use of an Alco 244 prime mover sound because of the high pitched turbo sound that I find very annoying, on my Main North Blog.
For all of my locos now I use the 11 x 15 Streamline Backshop 8 Ohm Sugar Cube speakers. Including the supplied Enclosure they are 8 mm high and unbelievable sound, see my Blog entry about these Sugar Cubes.
Lights in the 48.
The LEDs have their Voltage Dropping Resistors (4.7 k Ohm) fitted on the Light Board – no need to install resistors if doing an installation where you remove the Circuit Board like the AT-1000 below. The Light Board wiring is:
White = Positive – Function Common
Red = Headlight and White Markers negative.
Black = Red Markers negative.
Soundtraxx AT-1000 installation.
For the AT-1000 installation shown, I left the original speaker installed to hold the rear lights and fitted a SBS4DCC Sugar Cube speaker in the Cab roof.
1. Remove the Circuit Board.
2. Secure the AT-1000 on top of the Motor and the end hard up to the speaker.
3. Remove the wires from the 220 uF Capacitor and thread them down through the Rear Light as shown in photo.
4. Bend the Capacitor’s leads 90 degrees carefully by holding the base of leads with a small pair of long nose pliers.
5. Connect the Capacitor wires and locate the Capacitor under the Rear Lights as shown.
6. Solder the wires from the Pick Ups and Motor to the appropriate Tabs using the Decoder Instructions. Front and back Pick Up wires from the bogies are reversed, see photo.
7. Connect the Light Board’s WHITE wire to the Function Common.
8. Connect the Light Board’s RED wire to Front/Rear Headlight Tab.
9. Lengthen the Light Board’s BLACK wires and connect them to F5/F6 for independent control of Red Markers.
10. Install the Sugar Cube into the Cab Roof with Blu Tack making sure there is enough space for the Light Board and that it is positioned to provide enough clearance.
11. Connect the speaker.
12. Place the 48 on the Program Track and read a CV, say CV1.
13. If you get a successful read then there are no shorts.
14. On the Main, select the Headlights, using a Cotton Bud apply some Tamiya Clear Orange to the “bluish” LED to get rid of the blue tinge on the Marker Lights.
Loksound Select Micro.
1. I used the Circuit Board and removed “C1”.
2. I dismantled the Speaker and cut off some of Assembly, too keep the Rear Lights as shown.
3. Secured the trimmed speaker/light assembly with some tape.
4. I trimmed some of the Circuit Board to allow speaker fitment as shown, right.
5. I trimmed about 1.0 mm from the “screw end” of the Circuit Board to fit the Board.
6. I glued in a SBS4DCC Sugar Cube speaker “across” the chassis – a tight fit.
7. I fitted the 2 plugs adjacent to the speaker.
8. Secured the Circuit Board with the 2 screws.
9. Plugged in the Select Micro.
10. Tape the wires to keep them tidy and out of the way, when fitting the body.
11. Connected the speaker wires.
12. Checked the installation on the Program Track.
13. On the main select the Headlights, using a Cotton Bud apply some Tamiya Clear Orange to the “bluish” LED to remove the blue tinge on the White Markers.
Note: If you want to install some Stay Alive, discard the Circuit Board and hard wire in a Micro to make space.