Constant Current Charger for NCE throttles.
See
also – Procab & Cab04 “On Board” Chargers.
Modifying a 12 volt “Wall
Wart” for an “external” Charger.
All
types of batteries including NiCd and NiMH rechargeables, are suitable for NCE
Radio throttles due to a special on board, step up “Sepic” regulator from Linear
Technologies, that supplies the required voltage to the “board” as long
as the battery pack can supply the required current.
As
can be seen, the Procab with 4 AAA = 4.8 volts and the Cab04 with 2 AAA = 2.4
volts, provide different voltages to the Radio board, but both work. For more
operating capacity, I have fitted an extra 2 AAA batteries for a total of 4
batteries to a Cab04ER, so the owner could operate two 8 hour operating session
on a week end, without having to charge the batteries. He did not have an “on
board” charging socket.
NiMH
batteries have:
1.
more capacity than NiCds
2.
have a lower discharge
current rate than NiCds but are suitable for low current applications like this
charger.
3.
do not suffer from the
memory effect.
4.
are more “environmentally
friendly”.
Throttle
current draws:
·
The Procab with the screen
ON = 125 mAs
·
The Procab with the screen
OFF = 65mas.
·
The Cab04 = 65mAs.
Charging batteries.
Charging
NiMH and NiCd batteries, requires a constant
current for a prescribed time. Typical charge rates are:
where
C is the single
battery’s Amp Hour capacity.
Always
check the particular brand of battery’s specification to be sure that they can
be charged at the fast rate.
With
the medium and fast rates, there has to be some for of “disconnecting the
batteries” when the batteries are fully charged, other wise they may be damaged
that may cause electrolyte leakage and if they are still in the throttles, may
damage the throttle.
For
ease of charging and simple charger design, I have put together a slow charger,
that can be left connected to the batteries, in extreme cases, indefinitely,
but generally overnight. My own “charging regime” has me just charging my
throttles when they are flat or when I remember. Prior to an operating session,
I just charge all my throttles. These chargers are simple, so few can be made.
I
have made a little box that can be powered from the DCC track in case I need an
emergency charge to complete a “radio” session. This emergency charger uses a
bridge rectifier, a 555 timer, a few other components and a normally open push
button switch and a relay that I leave in my “traveling kit”. This provides .5
Amp to allow me to finish an operating session.
To
build the constant current charger, use a 9 volt DC 1/2 amp power pack,
available from Jaycar Electronics part number MP-3007 and attach components to
a tag strip attached to the plastic case. You may have to add a heat sink for
the LM317T voltage regulator.
For
more information about charge rates and how to charge NiMH batteries, see Powerstream or Panasonic.
According
to some NiMH manufacturers, the NiMH batteries should not be
trickle charged indefinitely.
This is my simple constant charger circuit with
only a few components and assembled in a short time. Use the values I have
included.

This
is not my design, I have just copied the circuit from some specification “typical”
notes that I have seen for 3 Terminal Adjustable Voltage Regulators that the
LM317 is.
Parts List with Jaycar part numbers
Values of Current limit
Resistor.
50mAs
= 25.0 ohms 55mAs = 22.73 ohms 60mAs = 20.83 ohms 65mAs = 19.23 ohms 70mAs = 17.86 ohms
75mAs
= 16.67 ohms 80mAs = 15.63 ohms 85mAs = 14.71 ohms 90mAs = 13.89 ohms 95mAs = 13.15 ohms
100mAs
= 12.5 ohms
Use
the closest ½ watt resistor. It is not critical to get the .1C value right,
close enough is good enough. For 65 mAs, 60 to 70 mAs is ok.
Resistors See Colour Code Chart for reading resistor
values. For more information
on resistors and basic electronics
I
have added the LED resistor and
LED to give an indication of charging current. Illuminated equals charging,
extinguished means no connection to batteries.
Use
12 ohm resistor to give the 2 .2 volts for the LED. This resistor and LED can
be left out for a more simple charger.
The two chargers I have made are shown below.
Left: The cheaper and easier to make unit with the
regulator, resistors and LED mounted on a tag strip with a heat sink for the
regulator, all secured to a 240/9 volt DC power pack.
Both
units have a fuse on the output.
Nothing
pretty, but practical, easy and cheap $20, to make.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
The more “professional” looking unit. All components
bought from Jaycar Electronics including the case that has a 3 pin 240 volt AC
plug molded into the base.
This
unit charges at a constant current of 70 mAs.
It
does not automatically shut down – charges as long as it is connected.
As
made my 700 – 900 mAh NiMH rechargeable batteries will be charged in 16 hours
(overnight). No damage if left indefinitely.
The
22 ohm 1 watt resistor has been “adjusted” by soldering a 100 ohm ½ watt
resistor in parallel to give 70 mAs charge rate.
To
increase charge rate add another parallel resistor to this location.
Remove
250 mAs fuse an insert an ammeter to check charging current with unit plugged
into a throttle.
When
I added this I had to add a parallel resistor to the LED “indicator” resistor to
reduce the current through the LED from 25 mAs to 17 mAs.
The
LED resistor (under the LED) is adjusted to give about 20 mAs through LED by
placing a resistor in parallel.
LED
illuminated indicates charging current is flowing. OFF indicates no power to
the unit or no connection to the batteries confirming connection to the
batteries.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Procab
and Cab04 Charging socket.
Fit
a 2.5 mm power socket available from Electronics suppliers next to
“transmitting LED” in case of throttle. The smallest size socket you can get
and drill appropriate hole in case.
Connecting
Instructions: Remove original red “positive” wire from “1”
and connect to socket “2”, the terminal of the socket that is going to be
powered when the plug is inserted into socket. The other terminal “3” is
disconnected when plug inserted, but is connected to “2” when plug is removed.
Connect
wire (can be any colour) from “3” to board “positive” connection at “1”.
Remove
some insulation from the “black” wire at “5”
where both the original red and black wires run around the mounting
screw tube, and solder a wire (any colour) at “5” and connect to “6”. This will
be the “Negative” of the charging socket.

The
Constant Current Charger charging circuit for this charger can be easily made
by using a LM317, 3 terminal adjustable voltage regulator and can adjust the
“constant current” by just changing the value of the resistor.
To get the smallest socket to fit in between the circuit boards I used
mono (two contacts), phono sub miniature connectors instead of power
connectors, due only passing 50 – 100 mAs current. A 2.5 mm mono socket, Jaycar
no PS-0105 and the corresponding plug, part no PP-0100.
The
socket has a switch inside it, that when the plug is inserted it will
disconnect the radio board from the batteries when charging, if wired up as per
the instructions above.