Auscision 46 Decoder Installation.
1. The body is “clipped” onto 4 protruding lugs on the mechanism. Tugging too hard on the bogies may cause the bogies to separate from the mechanism (Bogie saddle clip un-clipping) and possible damage to the bogie detail. As with other types of locos using this method of clips (Interurbans etc), I use Toothpicks to hold the body away from the mechanism for easier separation.
2. With the 46 held upside down, install 4 Toothpicks or similar “tools” at the locations as shown, then gently pulling on the mechanism.
3. If your 46s comes with Buffers, with the mechanism upside down on the table, replace the Couplers with the longer shank units that are included in the small parts package.
4. Remove the 21 Pin DC Plug.
5. Remove the “noise suppression” Capacitor marked “C1”on the Circuit Board by applying heat at both ends with your Soldering Iron. No need to remove both of the Inductors L1 and L2.
6. Plug your desired 21 Pin NON sound (motor) decoder, paying particular attention to aligning the MISSING Pin (#11) to the missing pin on the Socket, shown at the BOTTOM Left hand row of Pins in the photo below.
7. Place the 46 on the Program Track and attempt to read a CV, eg CV 1
8. A successful read (CV 1= 3), the decoder is installed correctly.
9. The decoder is now ready for you to program the new address.
10. Install the body making sure there is no gap at the body “clips” (where tooth picks are shown above) and you’re good to operate the 46.
Sound for the 46:
Fitting a 21 Pin V4.0 Loksound is the simple option for installing sound on the 46.
There are no “exact” sound decoders for the 46 yet. Wether one comes will depend on the suppliers like the Model Railroad Craftsman, DCC Sound etc. For this interim period, get the supplier to install a “close enough” and appealing “already recorded” Electric sound project. Sample sounds are available from what’s available from Loksound, without the use of a Lokprogrammer, at:
On my Southern Rail Interurbans I have used U.S. GG1 Loksound sound file. After listening to most of the Electric loco sample sounds, my mate Brian prefers the SNCB HLE21 Project No 55405 and loaded it into a V4.0 equipped loco using the Lokprogrammer. I did the same but prefer the GG1. This is what’s it all about. Listen to the sound samples and get Garry at the Model Railroad Craftsman to load the project of your choice. While all the sound projects have “electric” prime mover sounds but the supplied Horns may not be suitable. Essentially the Horn sound may determine the choice. You’ll have to spend some time in listening to these samples.
Garry at the Model Railroad Craftsman will soon have a “customized” 46 sound. The sound project for the V4.0 Loksound decoder can be upgraded/changed after installation, if necessary. It takes about 20 minutes and can only be done using a Lokprogrammer.
Installing the speaker.
NOTE: I found when installing the Enclosure/Speaker, it fouled on the Flywheel, preventing motor movement. Inspect the two Flywheels and see which end has the Flywheel further underneath the decoder. Install the Enclosure/Speaker in that end.
The Loksound V4.0 decoder comes with a 4 Ohm 23 mm Round Speaker complete with an Enclosure, soldered to two pads on the V4.0.
This Enclosure/Speaker fits into the mechanism as shown in the photo but prevents the 46’s Body from completely “clipping” onto the body (slightly too high).
I removed some of the back of the Enclosure’s “edge”, painted white in the photo for clarity, with the Dremel.
I removed the two speaker wires from the decoder because they will break off while handling the speaker/enclosure/decoder.
Install the Speaker into the Enclose making sure that the speaker is located just below the edge of the Enclosure.
Fit some Blu Tack to the 3 lots of slots in the Enclosure to seal the assembly.
Place the Enclosure in the mechanism as shown, paying particular attention to not crushing the wires that should be located in the two channels.
Solder the Speaker wires to the Circuit Board “SPK” Tabs, making sure that the wires do not lie under the decoder when the V4.0 is installed.
NOTE: Make sure no wires are under the decoder including the Red and Black motor wires, preventing the proper installation of the V4.0 decoder.
An alternative Speaker Installation using the supplied Enclosure.
Use a Loksound 20 x 40 mm 4 Ohm Speaker – Part No 50334. It takes only 5 minutes to install, without modifying/cutting the speaker or enclosure.
With the Loksound 50334 speaker on the work bench, Cone facing down.
Solder 2 wires to the Speaker.
Place a small amount of Blue Tack to “fill up/seal” the slot in the Enclosure.
Place a small amount of Miscoscale Kristal Klear around the edge of the Enclosure to seal the speaker.
Place the enclosure ONTO the metal frame of the Speaker.
The speaker metal frame does NOT fit inside the enclosure.
Mount the Speaker/Enclosure and connect the 2 wires to the V4.0’s “SPK” Tabs.
While there are two enclosures, installing one speaker with the V4.0 Loksound provides more than enough volume. In fact I turn down my overall volume CV 63 to 15 out of 64. If you want to install 2 speakers connect them in SERIES.
The 46’s Lights
The 46 has a small Light Board at each end with 4 LEDs including the 4.7 K Ohm Voltage Dropping Resistors, identified as “472” on the photo below.
The Headlight and Marker lights do NOT operate independently, as supplied. If you want to all lights to operate independently, you’ll need a 6 Function decoder.
The V4.0 only has 4 Function Outputs - Front and Rear Headlight with Aux 1 and Aux 2 that are capable of operating lights. Two extra “low level” outputs Aux 3 and 4 are provided on the V4.0 but CANNOT directly operate lights. For Aux 3 and 4 to operate lights, you’ll need to add an Adaptor Board that has the appropriate circuitry to operate lights and you need to “break into” the wiring, easily done at the Circuit Board.
The wiring for the lights is as follows.
Headlight LED: Positive = Green and Negative = Blue.
White Marker LED: Positive = Yellow and Negative = Blue.
Red Marker LEDs: Positive = Yellow and Negative = White.
Plugging a V4.0 onto the Circuit Board with Headlights selected, the Head light, white Marker lights and the opposite end Red Marker Lights, will illuminate.
Soldering small 0603/0805 Surface Mount resistors and connecting wires to the 21 Pin receptacle as explained below requires a small Soldering Iron tip and a steady hand. Components/decoder can be easily damaged. Be warned - do so at your own risk.
The illumination of Red Marker Lights on a loco pulling a train is a constant irritation for me. Operating the Red Marker Lights with Aux 1 and 2 and leaving the Head/Marker lights connected together is the better option without using an Adaptor Board. To do this, solder the WHITE wires to base of Pins 14 and 15 on the Circuit Board of the 21 Pin receptacle, see the SBS4dcc link at the bottom of this page. To allocate Aux 1 and 2 to Function Buttons (Function Mapping), you’ll have to use the Manual or Decoder Pro or a Lokprogrammer to operate the Red Marker Lights.
The Headlight is dim, most probably done on purpose due to the power rating of the surface mount resistors used in the two small Light Boards. Simply the wattage rating of a 0603 and a 0805 are .1 and .125 Watts respectively and using 1,000 Ohms, the rating may be exceeded. The theory says .144 Watts for a 1,000 Ohm.
I went ahead and replaced the 4.7 k resistor with a 1.0 k unit on the small Light Board. The resistors used are VERY small “0603” versions of SMD resistors. I did not have any (or more likely could not find them) so I fitted the slightly larger “0805” type. Even with my small Weller Solder Iron, I damaged the plastic and took two goes at soldering the 0605 resistors. See the photo for the comparison.
For more information and details on SMD resistors, see this Wiki page, especially under the heading of “Packages”, at:
Installing a NON 21 Pin, “Harness” type of decoder.
I have fitted a V3.5 Loksound and NON sound decoder “harness type” of decoders to my 46s. Also if you want to have independent control of the lights, you’ll have to solder the wires to the appropriate “places/wires” in the 46.
Essentially what I did is:
1. Remove the black plastic covers from the 4 Pick Up Tabs (the 4 “corner” Tabs of the Circuit Board) and the 2 Motor Tabs.
2. Solder these connections.
3. Solder the Red, Black, Orange and Grey wires to the appropriate Tab on the Circuit Board.
4. I soldered the Blue, White and Yellow wires to the appropriate Pin on the 21 MTC Plug using the SBS link below.
5. Place the loco on the Program Track and check for a “CV read”.
6. Then program you appropriate loco address.
The “pin out” of the 21 Pin MTC Receptacle, courtesy SBS is at: http://www.sbs4dcc.com/tutorialstipstricks/dccelectricalinterfaceconnectors.html